BA Fashion

Innovation Cut

I'm quiet excited for the prospects of this module. Although i've really enjoyed doing what i've been doing, I must say i've missed making a little! Pathway A is definitely the right pathway for me but sometimes I wish the two were a little more integrated.

I'm going to have to work quickly and efficiently as we have only been allocated just over two weeks. I know in the fashion industry we are expected to work quickly in order to meet strict deadlines but at times I feel uni could manage time a little better. For example we were given a week of doing nothing. Although it was good to have a little time off, this time could have been used wisely and allocated to the allowance of a further week within this module.

We we given four possible areas to research and I have decided to look further into the flat pack concept. I made this decision as I feel because it is not an area in which I have previously explored there is an opportunity to gain a different design application and technique process.

I like the idea of generating garments using a single piece of fabric. With the economy going the way it is this approach to design could potentially become more favourable as it minimises construction and waste.

Researching a selection of designers which have previously worked with this design aesthetic, I have gained various forms of inspiration.

I really like how Issey Miyakey's recent collection has been inspired by origami. His garments have been folded, laying flat they almost represent pieces of art work in their own right. Each item collaborates with a multifunction aesthetic, lifted in various ways, the customer decides how they would like to wear the garment.

I've come across several designers in which work with the multifunctional aesthetic. Manipulating garments into others. Allowing them to be used as something else, for example a bag. Detachable segments.

The designer Nicola Morgan was inspired by flat pack furniture. She works with one piece garments with no seams. Incorporating links she positions and rearranges them in order to create different forms. As well as being used to manipulate the shape these links have also been used to form a trim in certain instances.

The designer Ensuk Hur worked with an interchangeable modular system. This was taken to form either an interior accessory or clothing garment. Using fabrics such as leather, wool and felt, printed wood.

I was inspired by a combination of these designers ideas. Using flat panels I could laser cut jigsaw pieces. Attaching them to the edge of each panel the customer can then decide how they wish to wear the garment.

I've started making several mock up versions of my garment. I'm glad I took the time to follow this process through as I was faced with the reality that my jigsaw pieced fastenings are not strong enough to hold together when worn. I need to alter the design slightly in order for me to obtain a sturdy structure.

I experimented with a smaller slot and although this feature helped slightly the panels are still pulled apart to easily.

My pieces now consist of a circular loop and a small hole (with a radius measuring the same as the loop neck) Initially I intended the jigsaw pieces to slow together. However in reality this aesthetic could not be achieved. Although my underlying idea is still visible the separate pieces interact more to those of button holes.

This design works successfully as the panels now hold together and are not easily pulled apart.

For my final garment I have decided to use a Paper Nylon fabric. As the material holds opaque qualities, when worn it will help to create the idea that the customer allows the garment to transform into a complete puzzle when worn.

I have just created a half scale model of my garment using the paper nylon fabric. I am pleased with the overall appearance however as the fabric is light in weight the fastenings are easily pulled apart. I do not want to change the fabric so I shall ask Lyn tomorrow and see what she suggests.

After speaking to Lyn she suggested that I press a heavy weight fusible interfacing to the back.

I tested this and found that although one layer stiffened the fabric slightly, it still wasn't sturdy enough.

Two layers of the stiffener created a stiff fabric. After producing several jigsaw pieces within this sample I found that I was provided with a successful outcome.

Each panel is now held together securely and is not easily pulled apart.

I had my Laser Cutting induction day. Why did I not sign up for this workshop earlier? I was exposed to a variety of different techniques in which provided inspiration for various detail.

Luckily I had samples of my fabric on me so I was able to experiment with various ideas.

The Kiss Cut option lightly engraves an image onto the fabric. I used this option to engrave a jigsaw pattern. Manipulated onto the paper nylon fabric, the pattern appears engraved, however sections may also be pushed through if desired.

I shall take this method of application and work it into my final piece.

The idea aids a customisation feel as the customer may leave the pattern how it appears alternatively they could raise sections slightly or completely remove individual puzzle pieces.

Contemplating my final design I want to ensure that I provide the customer with a limited edition, customised garment.

I have decided to work with a white, opaque colour palette as it allows the customer to act as a complete puzzle. However a single piece within the garment shall be constructed from various colours. These coloured jigsaw pieces shall also contain the jigsawed kiss cut pattern.

Final Design Concept

. Interchangeable pieces.

. A multifunctional garment

. Pieced together through the use of separate panels to allow the customer to piece their own creative image together.

. The fabric Paper Nylon was chosen due to drape, how easy it was to manipulate, contemporary innovation. The sheer white appearance allows the customer to become the complete puzzle once wearing the garment

. The line "DOES IT FIT?" is high end designer. With a limited number sol, each individual piece contains a singular jigsaw pieces, constructed from a variation in colour.

My Final Design

I decided to work with a relatively simple design in order for the jigsaw pieces to hold the garment together successfully. I took a basic top pattern, closing the shoulder darts and opening the bottom (in order to generate flare)

To create the bottom skirt panels I then drew lines stemming from the bottom of the top.

As I wanted my dress to act as a bag when folded, I knew that I needed to provide some sort of handle. This was formed by incorperating the jigsawed shape at the bottom of each skirt panel.

I have begun assembling my final design and although its relitively simple to put together, it's taking me a while to lineup each jigsaw piece to make sure that they fit together exately.

In my final design, I intended to attach jigsaw pieces to the bottom section of each skirt panel so that the handles can be transformed into pockets or used to create a puff ball skirt if desired. In the time allocated I ran out of time for this idea to be followed through. Caroline has suggested that I leave my garment how it is and to show this idea within a half scale model. This will also allow me to fold the garment and show how it maybe transformed into a bag. I was going to fold my dress however, I have been advised against this decision as once folded Paper Nylon holds each crease.

When told that, I needed to generate a half scale model all I could think was nooooo. It took me long enough to jigsaw pieces to each panel and I did not want to go through this process again, especially with it being the night before hand in. I expressed my concerns to Caroline and thankfully so said that I didn't need to follow this process through. She said that I needed to provide a representation and this could be done simply but applying marking tape to the areas where jigsaw pieces would be incorperated.

I have make my half scale model now and worked with the making tape idea. Although I was happy that this option was provided to save time, I am not entirely happy with the overall appearance. It shows a representation of my work, but being a bit of a perfectionist (for own admition) I would have been happier if I could have provided a half scale module using the jigsaw pieces also.

Overall I am pleased I with my final design. I believe I have pushed myself in terms of concept and construction.

If allocated more time within this project I would have worked with the same aesthetic and design.

Here are photos of the final garment

If more time had been allocated, I would have placed jigsaw pieces surrounding the bottom of the loop within the skirt panels. This would allow the customer to lift the shapes if desired to form pockets. The fastenings could also been incorporated underneath the garment to prove a puff ball alternative.

What I would have done differently:

. Attach jigsaw pieces to the bottom of each skirt pannel

. Construct a half scale model using jigsaw pieces instead of

making tape.

This project will become the basis for the fashion concepts and new media project. As my project was heavily constructed through concept and individual customisation I am looking forward to the promotional side of a collection.