BA Fashion

Interdisciplinary Processes

Metamorphosis

For this module we were handed a spider diagram in which were were to select a form of metamorphosis, a media along with a word

I have decided to combine the idea of a biological change from a bulb to a flower with graphics and the word encase.

Although I must admit when handed the brief straight away I gave myself a couple of well deserved days off. I believe this important as I felt physically drained from the last project and wanted to make sure that I was going into this one focused and inspired.

I have now begun to leave an open notebook on my desk at all times. This project is filling my head full of ideas already and I want to make sure that I don't forget any!!

Looking at photographs of the stages of development of a rose I noticed that the bud encases delicate petals and vibrant colour. The shell could also be used to encase graphics both of a photographic, drawn and written format.

These videos capture the essence of true biological change

In order for me to recreate the hollow shell I paper mached a balloon. Instead of working with torn paper I constructed the entire structure out of the letters in which spell Blossom. This idea did not work as well as I thought it would as many layers had to be used for it to hold together. The letters blurred into one. However I was left with the structure in which I wished to obtain. Although I like this sample realistically I do not see how it could be worked into a garment.

I have just sewn together about a million and one herbal tea bags..My room smells all lovely and fresh :) Instead of leaving the tea bags in their original state I cut up a photograph of a rose and packed sections in a number of bags, at the top of the sample. Stretching across the top row I encased letters which spelt the word Bloom. Combining these ideas together recreated the sense that it is the soil that is needed for a flower to bloom.

I found a photograph of closed tulips and have just done a bit of work on photoshop. Layering and manipulating images of flowers into the insides of the tulips. This idea suggests that there is beauty within the closed structure.

Original Image

My manipulation

I encased the new image behind a variety of different medias. Starting with textured, printed paper. I like the encased image however it would only work on a small scale. If enlarged it would probably appear to patch worky, not the look I am going for!!

Testing with bubble wrap I like the effect provided once I had depicted the image with a hand stitch. I would only be able to hand stitch these samples as an industrial sewing machine does not work on bubble wrap unless the bubbles have been popped before. Even if this was done you still have to pull the material through the sewing machine, which can't be to good for it!!

Constructed using images of the stages of growth of a flower here are several other pages in which I constructed using photoshop

I like the colour scheme of this particular composition. Section could be taken and used in my final piece.

The word Bloom and the typography used works well for a possible brand name

My favourite sample is one in which I sewed together a large quantity of ruffles, recreating the appearance of a flower. I then placed them inside a perspex pod. You are presented with a shell - resembling a bud. The vibrant organza inside shows that there is beauty encased within. I shall definitely attempt to incorporate this idea into my final piece.

With several of the ruffles I experimented with stamping the letters in which spelt blossom and bloom. The stamp in which worked most successfully was the white cotton fabric with the black ink. Although you are able to vaguely see the word spelt out in the organza once placed in the pod this detail is not viable. I like the idea of collaborating the ruffles with either of the words, however if this idea is to work I would have to either print the letter on an open space of fabric or on ruffles in which remain outside of the pod.

It was out first day back at uni today since the Easter holidays. We were given our module handbook and I really do believe that it would have been useful to have had this information before we broke up. Knowing that we would be making a maxi skirt from either some or all of our samples meant that I could have generated more relevant ideas. So I am now going to have to go away and produce a little more.

I spoke to Adrian at the end of the day and he really helped me!! When looking at contemporary designs, I found several garments in which I fell in love with

Roksanda Ilincic  - Fashion in Motion November 2008

Christian Lacroix Fashion in Motion October 2006

They both project a romantic feel, one which would collaborate well with my ideas. For the prototype in which were are to have ready by Thursday I am going to experiment with layers and layers of sheer fabric. Placing them in squares and removing a circular panel in the centre (for the waist) I shall rouch segments and encase a number of the petal pods. I shall also see how the garment would appear if I as to combine pods with a number of open flower samples.

We had our tutorials and Angie wasn't so keen on the whole pod idea. She liked the ruffles flowers inside. But encased she said they just looked like screwed up balls of fabric. She did however like the samples I had created using wax. So after the tutorial session I began moulargeing a couple of ideas onto a half scale manikin and liked how different sized samples can be encased into and onto the fabric.

I am going to make a variety of different sized ruffled samples using wax on top and see how smaller, more vibrant colours would appear encased.

For my prototype I generated an idea which took a square of fabric, removing a circle in the centre for the waist I began to drape the fabric around the body. I encased several of the ruffles within the fabric as well as attaching a couple on top. I feel this idea needs changing as looking as the structure I want to include more detail. As the garment stands at the moment it appears a little bland and boring.

I have looked at past and present haute couture maxi skirts/dresses and was inspired by a number of designs. Chanel has provided amazing material to work with along with John Galliano. Their attention to detail and the amount of fabric used is phanominal!

Chanel Haute Couture

John Galliano

Alexander McQueen

I like the graphic flower images in which have been applied undernieth the top layer of fabric, this could be a possible way of application for my images

Hussein Chalayan

I have decided that I want my final piece to contain a large quantities of ruffles, trapping several within layers of contrasting fabric so I must make make make!!

I am already starting to feel that these ruffles are going to be the bain of my life for the next 4 weeks...but I decided on this design aspect so I must quite complaining and just get on with it!!!

Working on the stand I have come up with some successful and some not so designs. I know that my skirt needs to contain a large quantity of fullness in order for me to encase a reasonable number of ruffles. I started off working on the stand with just one layer of organza.

Not successful the ruffles appear to have been randomly placed onto

the fabric a strict structure has not been obtained

Here the ruffles were to heavy for the fabric and distorted the garments intended shape

Ruffles are successfully placed and held in place by the contours created by the draping

Although I like the sheerness and the contrast in which it projects against the waxed ruffles I believe that a more successful outcome will be achieved if I begin to experiment with multiple layers. Possibly in a combination of colours?

Below are several examples in which I managed to achieve by working on the stand

When manipulated onto a half scale manaquin this design worked however when replicated full scale I realised that it would not work as a garment. Because the corners have been wrapped around and lifted at the bottom it means that the customer would not be able to move

This is my favourite design. I obtained the shape by twisting each corner of the two layers of fabric and placed them asymmetrically around the body. As well as providing a number of folds in the fabric (for me to encase ruffles) I feel twists leading up to the waistband resemble the stem of a blooming flower...the theory in which my body of research lies.

As I selected the word graphics I know that I need to contain this aspect into the maxi skirt also. Looking to designers for a little inspiration as well as flicking through my research I have decided to work with this image

I was undecided on how I ought to attach the twisted fabric to the skirt, as the fabric is wrapped around the body they are not able to be sewn down. Talking to adrian he suggest I sew a safety pin to the back of each of them. These would act as a badge and it would also mean that the customer would be able to decide on how they would like to wear the garment. Altering the positioning of the ties would change the overall appearance. I could also manipulate the badge idea into my craft package. Providing the customer with a selection of badges is another form or customerisation.

I want my hanger to coinside with my skirt. Working with the typography Bloom through out my project I shall use this as a brand name and some how integrate to letters within or around the wire frame.

I went down to Jewelery today and managed to get some wire which holds the same as the wire hanger. I have entwined the letters Bloom from one end to another and was able to solder the edges together. Although I liked the overall appearance I wanted the frame work to corispond a little more to the maxi skirt. So I wrapped a combination of the purple and red organza around the letters. Doing this created the appearance of twists.

For my craft package I started off with a flower board to hold several badges. I decided to use a combination of waxed and non waxed as this asthetic has been applied through out my garment. Working with a customerisation feel I thought that as I had applied heat adhesive transfers to the fabric it would be a good idea to include several of the transfers in a leaf patterned envelope. The buyer will then be able to add to the pattern on the maxi skirt or if they would like to, transfer it onto any other pre-determined fabric. In order for the transfers to be ironed on correctly I shall compile a little instruction booklet to go with the envelop.

With the number of items I wish to include the back of the garment with appear to cluttered and confusing. Taking this into consideration I have decided to make a little bag to hold the give aways in. This bag will also act as a little keep sake for the customer and she be constructed from the same leaf pattern as the envelope. The Bloom logo shall also be present on the bottom right hand side.

The swing ticket shall be attached via a wax ruffle broach this feature will mean it is easily removed as well as providing the customer with another little something.

Final garment photographs