Before producing a final working drawing I studied my technical file. I want to create a garment in which takes each of the requirements and combine them successfully with one another, without any particular area being over powering.
I believe I managed to achieve this as I decided that I wanted a relatively large amount of fullness and flare at the bottom section of the jacket. So the jacket didn’t appear to fussy I have decided to work with a basic set in sleeve, however altering the position of the dart from the bottom to the elbow line. Making this alteration will help to provide ease to a tight fit. It will also provide the illusion of greater flare at the bottom of the jacket.
I feel the shoulder seam line darts will be the most appropriate dart manipulation for me to work with. They will take in the entire jacket to provide a fit that lays closer to the body.
Along next to my working drawing I have provided a fabric sample as well as a colour sample in which would be used for the top stitching. Using a contrasting colour would help certain aspects of the garment to stand out.
For the dart manipulation, facing, sleeve and fullness and flare ideas I believe it is important to show how I intend each of the features to work. By providing manipulation ideas for each of these aspects it will help anyone looking through my technical file to understand exactly how I intend my final garment to look.
At uni today we compiled a basic bodice block and sleeve..So glad they are out of the way! They seemed to take ages to create and it took me two attempts on the bodice as I stupidly drew a 48cm line at the top instead of a 40..To many mathematical equations were for my liking. However I am amazed what you can actually do with the basic shapes we now have and how a design can be completely changed just by slashing and flaring them!
My jacket pattern in now complete. It was relatively easy to do and I definately feel that my technical file helped me. It showed me when and where I would add flare as well as where appropriate seam allowances would be required.
When it came to the collar I knew that I wanted to work with a stiff structure. One that stood up and away from the body. I wasn't quite sure how I would achieve this however so I asked adrian and working on the manaquine he helped me solve this problem.
As of yet I have not yet made a proper garment so I must admit I am a little dornted about the idea of having to construct this garment from start to finish in 1 day.
I was a uni 9-7 today in an ATTEMPT at trying to finish, but i'm going to have to go back in tomorrow. ( I knew I wouldn't finish in time ) I know where I went wrong though. When it came to the sleeves, I didn't take into consideration that the darts needed to be sewn at opposites sides to one another. This meant that I ended up producing two exactely the same and had to unpick one and start again. I did the same with the flared sections of the jacket (only noticing once I had hemmed the top section) so again more unpicking. But if I had actually sat down and thought the design through more thorougly before rushing to the sewing machine these problems could have been avoided!!!
Yay I've finished my garment!!!! I listened to my own advice today. Thinking each process through before acting on my decisions and doing this payed off.
I am pleased with the overall outcome. I believe I successfully managed to display fullness and flare, a set in sleeve, dart manipulation, facing and a zip fastening.
Photograph of facing
Once I had attached the facing to the jacket I pressed the fabric in order for it to lay straight, Although this process helped, I felt more could be done. I asked one of the assisting technicians and they suggested I apply a stitch in which lay close to the seam but held the fabric down to the seam allowance.
I am pleased I took their advice and followed this step through! the facing is held down and hides any rough seam edges.
From this photograph you can also see that I decided to press open each seam in which was created, doing this provides a more professional appearance.
Photograph of the zip fastening
Photograph at the point of fullness and flare.
In my design I displayed a jacket, which held a point at the front, this aspect could have been displayed in my garment more successfully if I had cut away the top section of the skirt. I fell as the garment stands because I did not remove this top section, the opening does not lay straight, the way I initially intended.
I am pleased with how the two layers of fullness have been sewn into the back panel. This panel helped to exadurate fullness and flare and because of the lightweight calico fabric used it did not seem to separate the side panels. This final appearance could also be achieved in the silk fabric displayed in my working drawing.
With the front of the jacket I could have hemmed the two layers together in order to relate the appearance to the back. This process would be more favourable during manufacture as it would save time and money. However on the other hand doing this could possibly make the fabric of the jacket lay to rigidly, therefore disconnecting itself from the fluid lines created at the back.
I incorporated a stand up collar into the jacket. I am pleased with the outcome, it is clean cut and the appearance is exactly how I envisioned. However if I had used the silk fabric that was intended, because it is of a lighter weight than calico, the collar may have not laid right on the neckline. Introducing a slight curve into the collar pattern could render this problem.
Final garment
