Thursday, 31 December 2009

Creative Design Realisation

I believe that the brief was fully explained to us today for once!! I left uni knowing what is expected from me, understanding what I am required to submit and the date is to be submitted.

Angie explained that through out the project it's important that we are to keep our technical files up to date as this topic will be intense but well worth it.
After this week at uni I already understand what she meant! Its been an intense few days. With this being the first week that everyone actually remained in the building for the schedualed times.
I have learnt so much already as I have never previously worked with darts, facing and I have only ever sewn one zip into a garment before (and that didn't go to well)

The drawn stages of dart manipulation took a while to grasp but once understood they seem relatively easy and I have begun to experiment with the positioning. We were asked to include a minimum of 5 dart manipulation ideas however I feel the more I include the more it will help me later on in the course.
From the final stage I have decided to include a fabric sample for each of the darts. I feel doing this will help me through out my dress design process as it will allow me to see how the dart manipulations would lay and which one would be most appropriate for each garment.

I left the introduction to facing workshop thinking I knew what I was doing but since i've got home and looked at my drawings I am a little uncertain so I must as a tutor to go over this aspect again before I take it any further.

I understood the fullness and flair workshop that was held however by reading through a couple of books afterwards I feel a little more confident. Again we were asked to provide a minimum of 8 fullness and flair ideas in our technical file however the more I create the better. I managed to obtain a few ideas from the pattern cutting books in which we were asked to buy for the course.

I finally had my sewing machine induction. I was a little scared as I am a little used to my sewing machine at home and I had never used an industrial one. But after a couple of hours I gained a little confidence within myself and I can't wait to start work on the garment for this project!!
I also learnt a lot about seams. I had no idea there were so many different types. When we were shown the examples I felt they all looked pretty much the same with only slight differences. But after creating a sample for each I see how they differ and how they may be used successfully to provide different finishes.

Before producing a final working drawing I studied my technical file. I want to create a garment in which takes each of the requirements and combine them successfully with one another, without any particular area being over powering.

I believe I managed to achieve this as I decided that I wanted a relatively large amount of fullness and flare at the bottom section of the jacket. So the jacket didn’t appear to fussy I have decided to work with a basic set in sleeve, however altering the position of the dart from the bottom to the elbow line. Making this alteration will help to provide ease to a tight fit. It will also provide the illusion of greater flare at the bottom of the jacket.

I feel the shoulder seam line darts will be the most appropriate dart manipulation for me to work with. They will take in the entire jacket to provide a fit that lays closer to the body.

Along next to my working drawing I have provided a fabric sample as well as a colour sample in which would be used for the top stitching. Using a contrasting colour would help certain aspects of the garment to stand out.

For the dart manipulation, facing, sleeve and fullness and flare ideas I believe it is important to show how I intend each of the features to work. By providing manipulation ideas for each of these aspects it will help anyone looking through my technical file to understand exactly how I intend my final garment to look.

At uni today we compiled a basic bodice block and sleeve..So glad they are out of the way! They seemed to take ages to create and it took me two attempts on the bodice as I stupidly drew a 48cm line at the top instead of a 40..To many mathematical equations were for my liking. However I am amazed what you can actually do with the basic shapes we now have and how a design can be completely changed just by slashing and flaring them!

My jacket pattern in now complete. It was relatively easy to do and I definately feel that my technical file helped me. It showed me when and where I would add flare as well as where appropriate seam allowances would be required.

When it came to the collar I knew that I wanted to work with a stiff structure. One that stood up and away from the body. I wasn't quite sure how I would achieve this however so I asked adrian and working on the manaquine he helped me solve this problem.

As of yet I have not yet made a proper garment so I must admit I am a little dornted about the idea of having to construct this garment from start to finish in 1 day.

I was a uni 9-7 today in an ATTEMPT at trying to finish, but i'm going to have to go back in tomorrow. ( I knew I wouldn't finish in time ) I know where I went wrong though. When it came to the sleeves, I didn't take into consideration that the darts needed to be sewn at opposites sides to one another. This meant that I ended up producing two exactely the same and had to unpick one and start again. I did the same with the flared sections of the jacket (only noticing once I had hemmed the top section) so again more unpicking. But if I had actually sat down and thought the design through more thorougly before rushing to the sewing machine these problems could have been avoided!!!

Yay I've finished my garment!!!! I listened to my own advice today. Thinking each process through before acting on my decisions and doing this payed off.

I am pleased with the overall outcome. I believe I successfully managed to display fullness and flare, a set in sleeve, dart manipulation, facing and a zip fastening.

Photograph of facing

Once I had attached the facing to the jacket I pressed the fabric in order for it to lay straight, Although this process helped, I felt more could be done. I asked one of the assisting technicians and they suggested I apply a stitch in which lay close to the seam but held the fabric down to the seam allowance.

I am pleased I took their advice and followed this step through! the facing is held down and hides any rough seam edges.

From this photograph you can also see that I decided to press open each seam in which was created, doing this provides a more professional appearance.

Photograph of the zip fastening

I am pleased with the overall appearance of the visible zip fastening. It is clean cut and how I intended it to appear.

Photograph at the point of fullness and flare.

In my design I displayed a jacket, which held a point at the front, this aspect could have been displayed in my garment more successfully if I had cut away the top section of the skirt. I fell as the garment stands because I did not remove this top section, the opening does not lay straight, the way I initially intended.

I am pleased with how the two layers of fullness have been sewn into the back panel. This panel helped to exadurate fullness and flare and because of the lightweight calico fabric used it did not seem to separate the side panels. This final appearance could also be achieved in the silk fabric displayed in my working drawing.

With the front of the jacket I could have hemmed the two layers together in order to relate the appearance to the back. This process would be more favourable during manufacture as it would save time and money. However on the other hand doing this could possibly make the fabric of the jacket lay to rigidly, therefore disconnecting itself from the fluid lines created at the back.

I incorporated a stand up collar into the jacket. I am pleased with the outcome, it is clean cut and the appearance is exactly how I envisioned. However if I had used the silk fabric that was intended, because it is of a lighter weight than calico, the collar may have not laid right on the neckline. Introducing a slight curve into the collar pattern could render this problem.

Final garment

Front View

Back View

Wednesday, 21 October 2009


Reading through the module handbook the first aspect in which I noticed is that it is composed from a number of briefs. With the deadline being the 1st December although this initially seemed a relatively long period of time after reading thought the contents and taking in what is expected from us I know that I will need to manage my time wisely in order for me to obtain a pleasing final piece. Especially as this week shall be used for workshops, reading week is the following week, I must not loose focus!!

The first section of the brief requires us to provide 20 illustrated drawings, with a minimum of 5 computer generated images. I must say I am quite nervous about having to provide CAD images as I have not yet worked with photoshop, but i'm sure we will be tough enough to get through this stage! (hopefully)

For the second section the the brief we were given a list of words and artists in which were were required to select one from each in order to create a starting point.
I selected the word skeletal as this word filled me full of ideas from the word go! I could look into several sections of the skeletal frame, investigate anorexia as well as look at the structure of shells, butterflies and birds.
I chose the artist Thomas Heatherwick as I felt that his work was a contrast to that of the word skeletal. He works with jaggard edges and definate hard structures. I believe that working with opposing ideas will help me to generate diverse designs and will leave me with an interesting final piece.


We had our Line and Proportion workshop today. From the work constructed although I do not feel I shall be including any of the pages in my end portfolio I shall take several of the techniques home and use them in oder to compile different compositions.


With the Texture and Surface workshop I found the slide show presentation helpful. Taking notes on illustrators in whom work with texture opened my eyes into the different materials in which could be used and manipulated in order to create the illusion of something else.
I ran out of time when it came to rendering techniques into the table set ups, however today I brought my camera into uni so managed to take several snap shots. I shall work on my sketches at home, giving myself more time to work on each composition will leave me with something I am more likely to include at the end.


Out of the three workshops in which were conducted, I would say the Dressed Drawing Figures was the favourite. I feel that I managed to produce a selection of pieces in which might actually feature in the portfolio
The group as a whole had more of a positive outlook today. I recon this was because the task seemed more relevant to the course we are here to study.


Our project brief contains a structured timetable, this helped me to keep on track during reading week as there is a lot to get through in such a short space of time, I feel I may not have done as much as expected with out it.
I made sure that I completed all of my drawings during this week, however left the 5 images in which are expected to be produced using CAD as the CAD workshop will help me to produce pieces in which work with several more technical elements.


We had a rebriefing on the second section of the project today, this involved a brainstorming session on words. To be honest for me this workshop was a waste of time as I had already chosen my word and artist, producing several pieces for each. For the people who hadn't even chosen a subject yet I feel they are already pushing for time.


The Manipulating Image workshop was interesting!! Previous, I have never thought about isolating shapes from a given image in order to form garment ideas. I shall take this technique home and shall produce a range of ideas for both my word- skeletal and my artist Thomas Heatherwick.
I've managed to compile a selection of ideas in which I am really pleased with! I am already starting to think about how it would be possible to convert them into an actual garment. I would love to produce a garment in which incorperates some of the extreme elements for example exadurated hoods, jolted edges and massive shoulder pieces but I know realistically I will have to tone down my ideas as I do not yet hold the technical abilities in which would be needed to render such pieces :(


Although the Fabric Manipulating workshop was time consuming it was useful and was important in helping me begin the process of transferring my ideas from pen to stand.
I worked a lot with the pleating technique as to me resembles the appearance of shells and segments of the skeleton. I experimented with variations in sizing and pleating from different angles and feel that I was left with a more successful structure when working with the technique in one selected area. Doing otherwise left me with designs in which are to confusing.



The idea sheets workshop was an eye opener. I had preconseptions to what an ideas sheet was meant to incorperate, however this course asks for different and helped me realize that revisiting starting points would help to construct successful well thought through final pieces.


Over the weekend I managed to put together 5 idea sheets. Looking into the skeletal frame, shells, butterflies, Thomas Heatherwicks sculptures along with structures in which I came across while traveling last year.




These idea sheets started to general possible designs in which would intergrate my ideas into the three deconstructed shirts we were asked to produce a final garment from.
My pen's going ten to the dozen, ideas are rushing through my head. Designs working with structure, pleating, ruffles, folds.
Successfully managing to conjour up 30 designs, I now have the menial task of sifting through the good and bad for a final design to work with. I have constructed several good ideas and am finding it hard to depict what I don't want.


For me to come up with a final piece in which I feel happy with I have reflected on my design sheets. Combining several ideas with my sketches I have decided upon the basic structure of a shell for the body, the skeletal frame and how an anorexic covers the breast area with bandages and a heavily pleated shoulder piece in which I feel successfully manages to combine the ideas of the stair case designed by Thomas Heatherwick with similar patterns found on that of shells.


I've got my CAD induction later on today i'm quite looking forward to it. Mainly for the fact that i've never used photoshop before and feel that in that aspect I am pretty behind as everyone on this course seems to have years of experience.
I thought that we would would have learnt more in the session thought taking into consideration how much there is to learn I surpose it can't all be tought at once. Although not that much was tought bruse made sure that what he did go through was understood properly! I must say now I have become quite obsessed with the clone stamp tool!! haha


My final piece is finished!! It took a while to generate a design, however once that was sorted it didn't actually taking as long as I thought it would to assemble :).


I decided not to dye the the fabric, as the contrast between the white and the calico works well together in providing the idea of bandages being wrapped around the body as well as the structual aspects of a shell. However if I was to follow this project
through again I would have experimented with several dyeing techniques. I could have possibly dyed the bottom gahered section a pale shade of pink. This colour scheme would potray a look similar to that of the shell in which I gathered the most inspiration. Leaving the top section the same colour would still help to render the appearance of bandages.


I got my feedback after handing in the project...I couldn't have asked for better remarks off Angie :)!!!! She told me that my work annoyed her in the aspect that she tried so hard to pick a fault out, so she could give me some advice on what to improve on, but should couldn't find a thing :) so pleased!!!!! She didn't actually realize one of my skeleton drawings was a drawing until I told her, she had to take it out of the plastic wallet for closer inspection.

With this being our first project set the brief set seems slightly daunting as I have not created a 3D structure previous to now. However I am looking forward to learning about the processes and methodology in which fashion designers/ artists, used/use in their work.

Over a course of 3 days we have 3 lectures, following each lecture we shall be given 5 hours in which we are to select a designer. As 5 hours is an extremely short amount of time asked to produce large quantities of work I shall have to work out a time management schedule.

From the first lecture I decided to look further into the Gibson Girls. I wanted to look at how garments maybe used in order to restrict the female form, alternating shapes. During the 5 hours allocated I went into the city centre and looked for any information in which I would be able to relate to the 1920 period. Taking photographs of corsets in shops, caged bodices and gathering look books from numerous stores. Although I managed to collect images from various sources I fell I could have utilized my time more wisely and planned where I was to go in town before I set off, doing this would have given me time to conduct research over the internet along with making several quick sketches. I must remember this for the further two lectures!!

For the second and third lectures I decided to stay in college, doing this enabled me to gather large quantities of research from that of the internet and the library. I also managed to conjure up several quick sketches and believe I managed my time well. Although I could have done with photographic images! I shall g o into the centre later and see what I can find.

I looked a Hussien Chalayn, Paco Rabanne and then I had already gathered relevant information about the designers Viktor and Rolf over the summer

Now with the Gibson Girl period and the 3 designers in which I researched I am to figure out a way in which I can relate them to one another. In order to create a 3D advertisement for an imaginary exhibition.

I must not get behind over this next week if I do it will not give me enough time to produce a structure in which I feel happy with.

I have brainstormed ideas in which I feel will helped me collaborate all four areas together.

The aspects in which I find noticeable are that of restriction and hiding the female form behind that of exadurated proportions.

.The Gibson Girls – Restricted and hid their body under corsets.


.Paco Rabanne and Hussein Chalayn were known for their use of innovative materials, using ones that often restricted the body from movement.

Hussein Chalayan


Rabanne


.Viktor and Rolf played on the proportion size of material. For example in their collection ‘Flowerbomb’ they covered the body in oversized ribbons.


I am now drawing my design ideas down onto paper. As I have gathered a large variety of images and cross-referenced certain aspects I’m not finding this brief as daunting as it first appeared. As I flick through resources, ideas keep on coming into my head along with all the materials in which I could possibly use for construction.

I have made several prototypes for the main bodice. I am glad that I stayed up late last night in order to get these finished!! They have helped me realise which materials work well together and which don’t. Without them I wouldn’t have even considered using boning for the bodice structure and I would have been left with a flimsy advertisement that would have probably fallen apart when touched if not when hung up.


Realising that the structure would appear to plain if it was left how it was I have decided to look back thought my research to see if I can find some sort of pattern or element in which will provide interest and colour.

The Gibson Girl era contained flower patterns and decoration I shall look into artists in which also work with flowers and see if I can incorporate this into my advertisement somehow.

If a woman is beautiful she is compared to that of an English rose. I shall use this concept in my final design as I decided on the title ‘ How fashion can hide as well as reveal’ this title I feel is suitable for the exhibition as it is to do with how designers through periods of time have kept the beauty of the femine form hidden behind a range of unconventional materials and innovative design.

I am reasonably happy with my final structure. However I was a bit pushed for time and if only I would have had an extra day or so I think I would have been able to provide something in which I feel a little more pleased with. As I decided to incorperate flowers into the bodice at a late stage I did not take into consideration different ways in which they maybe placed I just threaded them through the inside. I also feel I would have come up with a better ideas for the head used instead of just sticking a magazine cut out on to several sheets of black card. Knowing that time management is important, in further projects I shall make sure that I do not leave any important detailing to the last minute.