Extended Research Practices Inspiration

Inspiration

Videos

Maison Martin Margiela

GARETH PUGH PITTI 2011 - FILM BY RUTH HOGBEN

Internship at Bora Aksu

On the way to London this morning. I didn't feel as scared or as nervous as, I thought, I was going to. I was so excited at just the honour of being inside the studio, let alone being interviewed for an internship there.

Walking into the studio, I was filled with inspiration. It is such a creative place, with illustrations, garments, moodboards and fabric placed every where.

Lead into a small room ready for my interview, I was not expecting the designer to be there himself. Complementing me on my outfit, everything seemed so surreal.

Opening my portfolio half way through, Fella asked Bora to come over and have a look for himself. I began to explain in detail each project and the outcome from the brief that was set. The feedback, I received was incredible, he said that it was one of the strongest portfolios he had seen and loved all of the work generated within application in design. This included the flip books, the invitation and the overall concept.

Both Fella and himself were impressed with the headwear piece, I had designed within millinery and said that the shapes in which were put together were unusual, creative and inspirational.

He also made reference to the overall presentation and said that, I hold a strong out for layout. An understanding in which seemed evident within the foundation sketchbook that was also shown.

It definitely helped that, I knew each collection in depth. Fella asked me which my favourite collection had been and, I said s/s 2010 because of the colour palette, the construction techniques that had emerged and refined from previous collections.

I then described this specific design (which impressed)

The way knitwear had been integrated into the tailored pieces is truly inspirational. Working within the studio, I will be exposed to the techniques used. Techniques in which could potentially be utilised within my third year.

I asked Fella in which collection she felt to be most successful and why. She described the Autumn/ Winter 2011 collection. Stating that although Bora was personally unsure about incorporating spiders within the hair and along the arm, stepping outside of his comfort zone provide an astonishing final collection.

I completely agree with what was said. I feel at times, I need to step outside of my comfort zone a little more in order to generate more experimental and contemporary designs.

I couldn't believe it when, I was told that they were definitely offering me the internship over the summer! It was said that before, I had even attended the interview they were more than likely going to offer me the position as, I had sent numerous e-mails and made multiple phone calls. It does show that persistence pays off.

The fact that only seven other students have been given the same opportunity put a definite smile on my face. The fact that studio must receive hundreds of applications and, I was one of the lucky few to be chosen.

I asked the sort of roles that would be required of me whilst working within the studio. A vast array of duties were listed from sewing, labelling, promotion, fabric collection, illustration and Photoshop/Illustrator work. If working with my favourite designer wasn't enough, the internship will be the perfect opportunity to expand my knowledge relating to every area involved within the industry. It will also help me refine specific areas of interest and could help in the elimination of areas, I would not wish to pursue later on in my career.

Along with working over the summer, I have also been given the opportunity to work behind the catwalk at London Fashion Week. I have always wanted to go and not only being amongst the hype of it all, I will be able to see a collection in which, I have aided progression go down the catwalk.

Can not wait until my Summer in London!

Research Practices

The brief set seems quite daunting. I feel it could potentially be the most challenging to date.

We have been asked to select a core theme from Application of Design along with a separate from our lecture notes. Each are to be researched individually and then linked together in a way to provide a final product, brand and concept.

Enthused by the whole content of Application in design I have decided to examine the sea life ideal. I will research several prints however it is more the contrast and variation in texture which I wish to create.

In relation to my lecture notes I have chosen to examine the word museology. Below I have included an extract in which I will gain inspiration

Museology is the study of the "museum experience" seen both through the eyes of the institution, and the visitor. The motivation factors for both groups that result in the "museum experience" change over time with the collection on display, and the history of this change is also a subject of museology.

Museology seeks to understand and develop proficient exhibits which engage the audience by way of looking at the past and truly grasping techniques and displays that are productive and how they can be adapted to changing societies and utilized to effectively educate and stir interest, awareness, or curiosity. Both form and function become sources to be analysed as they allow greater comprehension of an audience’s overall reception of a message.

Historians recognize inherent issues, problematic to the ‘truth’ which they seek to unfold and have been forced to adapt their tactics when drawing information out; this has led to tremendous efforts to borrow from other disciplines.

From this given text, I noticed museology is described as a structure, an institution in which is open to change. Unfolded and adapted to change in order to draw out information. This has inspired me to look at how art is displayed in museums. The structure of museums. I will look into particular techniques such as origami, quilting and pleating and work with the idea of transforming a product thought the use of multiple panels.

In order to attain primary research, I visited the Leeds City Museum. Photographs were taken not of the art work itself but the overall layout and compassion used throughout.

Vary the size and shape of individual panels. Asymmetrically placed, Raise individual areas to create interest and texture.

Sheer pockets, lining, fabric. A contrast in opacity suggests a variation in texture.

Colour inspiration - I believe the white and the deep red work really well together. A white fabric could be used within my final product range. Using a white, opaque fabric such as paper nylon would bring the notion of the white cube - an aesthetic used throughout numerous museum displays.

It was the first day back at uni today since easter and we were required to make a story board in order to combine the two texts and provide a clear and concise concept whilst suggesting any possible products to create a range. A few days previous to this, I had already generated two separate moodboards in which provided any imagery and illustrations in which had provided inspiration. This meant that the storyboard itself did not take long to generate.

For my final product, I have begun to look into bag manipulation. A bag frames a garment and the body, allowing it to become the focal point of an outfit. This idea relates cohesively to my overall concept.

I shall now begin to look into more panelled structures. The sea life element shall appear through laser cut patterns, exposed, raised seams and finishes. Geometric shape could possibly be overlapped in order to generate shell like appearances.

I had an interview in London today, which meant that, I was unable to attend the research practices lesson. Although it was only a day as only a day per week is allocated to this module within university, I feel so far behind. Talking to the others within the group, they experimented with drawn designs, fabric manipulation, moulage, samples and were able to compile a final design. Although, I have already compiled several of my own fabric samples it is important that over the weekend I focus on the design and experiment with pattern manipulation.

Photographs of the most successful samples

Reverse Pleats

Geometric shapes sew together along each side with a zig zag stitch. This sample combines each aesthetic. With shape inspiration taken from Museology and visible stitching inspired by sea bed textures.

Although, I have managed to create a large number of designs, I still feel that, I am not quite at the final design stage. I laser cut an adequate amount of paper nylon and shall begin to moularge the fabric together in order to aid the final design process. I do not want the structure to become to complex as museolgy is about simple interchangeable structures. The design aesthetic shall be more prominent within the fabric itself, encasing laser cut patterns between two layers of paper nylon. (this concept again relates to museology as the art work is framed)

The Laser cut pattern

The shapes removed from the fabric.

The final pattern was generated by taking the outline of these shapes. The pattern was cut twice, rotating the top layer in order the provide distortion. The technique generated shapes similar to that provided by shell sutras through a geometric perspective.

I have begun to experiment with bag construction.

Initially my final design contained a base as this is where, I wanted to incorporate the geometric sewn sample. However after, I had produced the pattern, I noticed that once fastened together the base lifted and exposed. I want the bag to lay flat both fastened and unfasten and therefore have decided to remove the base and attach the panels together along the bottom.

The outcome of removing the base provides a representation of my desired intention.

In order to secure each panel together, I wanted to take aspects from both areas of research. Eyelets combined with picture hooks provided a secure, innovative fastening.

Although the specific fastening worked how intended, I found the contrast between the gold and the white fabric to be excessive. It made the design appear cheap. Emphasis was placed the fastenings themselves, an intention, I do not wish to achieve.

I've started to contemplate alternative variations in which maybe used. Although used continuously throughout the catwalk, a button fastening combines each areas of research.

I wanted to make sure that the fasting itself did not overpower the structure. I managed to find a clear plastic hexagon shaped button. A shape used throughout my design process. Clear plastic casing is used throughout museology, it glimmers when hit with light, an aspect found beneath the sea. A button hole is finally framed with a top stitch, again allowing both areas to successfully collaborate with one another.

My Toile

I am happy with the overall design. Although geometric panels were used, The structure were softened by incorporating a strap diagonally from the front to the back. This shall be my final design.

I started to construct my final design today. Initially, I was going to over lock each panel and not line the bag however because of the angles used within the side panels, I found that lining would be needed for a professional image to be attained.

Lining the inside of the bag, I decided to leave the top section exposed. This aesthetic still allowed overlocked edges to be exposed whilst providing additional pockets.

Initially, I was going to incorporate the the sewn geometric shapes within the base of the product. However once the base had been removed, I was forced to reconsider placement. Taking into consideration pocket designs, I have decided to attach the sample panels within the inside of the lining of the front and back panels. Confining the texture within, the shapes appear visible from the inside of the bag.

With each panel attached 6 secreted pockets are provided - the number of sides it takes to generate c hexagon - a geometric shape used throughout the design process.

With panels varying in thickness and opacity, when attached together areas are raised.

It provides an appearance similar to that of pleating. Another aspect in which links the two areas f research cohesively.

Final Design Concept

To experience the seabed idea through geometry and confining the equation within the subject of museology. The final collection provides a range of innovative products that are used to frame aspects of an individuals life. Consisting of large totes to purses and pass port holders.

Photographs of my final bag

The strap may be removed to prove a clutch alternative

The side panels may be removed to form a small rectangular bag

I believe that, I managed to fulfil the brief in which was set. Successfully managing to combine two aspects of research. I am happy with my final outcome and am looking forward to utilising the concept surrounding my third year.

Aspects in which, I will carry on are Laser cutting, pattern manipulation and interchangeable fastenings. Although, I believe the fastenings chosen to be successful, I will continue to research potential alternatives.

Digital prints could be integrated within future collections along with numerous techniques such as knit. Although as of yet, I have not been exposed to the knit process working with Bora Aksu over the summer will help.

Application in Design

We got given our new brief today. I had no idea what to expect.

Split into groups appropriate to strengths within our own specific areas, individuals were then taken from each and placed into separate groups of 6.

My group consists of Hannah, Lucie, Kelly, Jen and Yasmin (A group i'm pleased with)

Within this group we much produce a new brand a concept which could be sold in HIGH END STORE.

This brand has been broken up into 5 different areas where each of us must generate designs for accessories, footwear, home wear, headwear and stationary.

Although working individually each design must work cohesively with the group.

I have been allocated accessories. Definitely the subject in which I was hopping to get!

Although, I am pleased with my group, I hope this module goes well. It is worth 20 credits. A lot, I feel for group work. Everyone have there own particular way or working and varying tastes which may make collaboration a little hard. I hope everyone comes into uni when required t,o as we have only one day within university on this project so could be easy to fall behind.

I can see the relevance of this module however as it will prove good practice for when we leave university.

I had an idea for a concept. We could sell blank pendent jewellery pieces with numerous designs. The designs would be purchased separately and popped into the empty space. This idea allows creativity and customisation. It would work cohesively with the other given areas as blank shoes and head pieces could be sold. The concept would also work with headphones. For stationary and homewear, the designs could be purchased already within however they could be sold as stickers or irons alines to carry the customisation feel throughout. I proposed the idea to Lucie and she kinds of gets what I mean, I just need to explain my ideas to the others. Will do this tomorrow. Hopefully they will like it if not don't no where to begin as we have little time to prepare concepts, colour schemes and appropriate fonts and brand names.

To ensure each designer is working with the same colour schemes and designs when working within their given area, I believe they ought to be generated on Illustrator as the file is easy transferred through systems and dragged into colour swatches.

Had a group meeting today. Were going with my idea however it has been altered slightly, so each piece is attached through the use of snap fastenings. This was a good idea from lucie as the application allows from the transformation within home wear and stationary.

I googled synanims for attach and one of the words that came up was Annex. This shall be the name of our brand. It describes our intentions without going into to much detail (just enough to get the customers attention) and it has a certain high end sort of feel.

Need to find a font for the brand and will have a look around later. The appearance cant appear to script written as with the letters involved it will mean the name is not easily read.

Also need to locate appropriate pattens in which maybe incorporated. Kelly came up with the idea of alternating the patterns slight between seasons. So that is spring and summer more flowery images would be worked with and autumn/ winter more leafy skeletal outlines.

Literally getting so frustrated already! I thought the concept behind the annex brand was the whole snap fastening idea. However others don't really seem the find the snap fastening cohesion aspect that relevant. Wanting to work with different fastening within different products. I tried to come up with something that could be used within everything - magnets, slips, but kept on getting knocked back and told that the actually fastening wasn't the concept but the idea was. If the snap fastening was used throughout each product everything would fit more cohesively! in the look book the designs could printed on however the patterns could be attached using snap fastenings so that the customer can visually experiment. An idea which would not work if different aspects are worked with.

If aspects within the product range were changed slightly this maybe possible. For example i don't see why laptop slips when annex wont be selling laptops.

I don;t want the rest of the group to feel that I want to be in change and want everything my way, I just want to make sure that the annex is a strong brand and projects a strong identity.

The print has also been changed. We are now working with a more artistic digital print. Digital being the operative word, several individuals within the team want to generate prints using ink and other materials. These prints would be scanned in and would help to obtain a more personal feel. An idea which would be good however in reality when are these prints going to be made? there doesn't seem any sense in urgency! The print is also at the risk or looking to much like an art project and I don't feel a high end image will be attained. I suggested we make the prints through multiple layers on the computer. This idea will be quicker and generate something a little more professional. Some liked this idea however again others wanted to generate the prints themselves. If we are only going to work with a small number of prints anyway it means the ones not use will have wasted there time - TIME WE DO NOT HAVE TO WASTE!!!

I generated quite a large range of prints. Manipulated within both photoshop an illustrator. I combined several digital prints that i found on the internet with aspects of the sea. For example coral ref, fish and jelly fish. I took inspiration for the sea in terms of colour and also felt that the jelly fish head resembled the base of a snap clasp fastening.

Here are several of prints

I showed them to the rest of the group and although we haven't yet decided on the ones in which we intend to use a selection of these prints shall be incorporated into the annex brand.

I'm feeling more positive towards this project now as each individual is managing to work from the same inspiration and has decided to work with the singular snap clasp fastening idea.

With no further pattern suggestions, my prints shall be used throughout annex. Three prints have been decided upon. The prints were chosen as they all vary in colour however work together cohesively in terms of composition, allowing the customer to identify with the annex brand.

Here are the prints that were decided upon.

What a start to the day! Paul told us all the the work from Creative Approaches In Design has been cross marked and will be marked down as the marks had originally been set to high. It left everyone worrying slightly. We were also told it was mentioned that there just wasn't enough work overall in relation to sketchbook and portfolio.

I'm starting to worry slightly now. Although, I managed to produce an adequate amount of work, all of it was pretty much all portfolio stuff with no rough sketches.

I now understand why rough sketches may want to be seen however, I do feel, I explored every area required and didn't skimp on the designs. I hope this doesn't go against me! but will find out when we start back after reading week.

I showed Paul the work, I have generated up to date and although he said he liked what, I had produced it was all to finished and needed to see rough sketches.

Went out and bought a sketch book. Started to get a little into it, however, I have admitted defeat on designing with ink. When looking at ink designs compiled by others, I become inspired however in reality when I experiment with this media nothing but a mess on a page is created.

Getting into drawing though its taking absolutely ages!! started working with magazine silhouettes and a combination of computer and hand drawn work in order to speed up the process a little.

Thought I had quite a few designs in my sketch book, so showed Paul in order to get any feedback before we break up for reading week. He said there were some good pages but, I don't know he didn't seem overly enthused. Need to start working a little more freely though and hopefully will get better with practise.

The InDesign Workshop today was a little boring. I was under the assumption that the software was going to be something in which was hard to pick up and understand. More over being competent with Photoshop and Illustrator the application was easy to understand and manipulate.

Although the workshop was slightly monotonous it was a useful one to attend. I now understand the application used to produce magazines and look books. It will help to create a professional looking 12 page booklet for this module.

It is also another computer skill, I will be able to list on my CV.

In order to speed the design process up a little i've combined several drawings within illustrator and photoshop. I'm pleased with the hand rendered illustrations as they have definitely lead me to create a more successful final design. I looked into weaving effects that the jelly fish silhouettes created and combined them with aspects of octopus tentacles. This provided ideas for a combination of chains and pearls, woven in a fluid structure. With multiple snap clasp fastenings.

Here are my final designs

Literally getting so frustrated with this project right now!

Paul asked how everything was going and if the annex group was meeting up. I tried to bit my lip but had to be honest NO! Iv'e managed to generate a large quantity of designs and have wanted to make a start on the booklet and video for about 2 weeks now but several members of the group have barely made a start on the design progress. Meaning nothing else can be done till all designs have been finalised. I don't understand have some people literally can't come up with ideas how how to design. Although we aren't designing fashion garments the process is still the same and in the 'real world' we aren't going to be designing everything we want to day in day out.

The group had a meeting and said that over the weekend they would have all generated enough designs to put a final one through to be finished on illustrator on Monday. However yet again this decision was not followed though and even though we have been told that we are all getting marked individually we must all put together a video and booklet ready for the presentation - aspects in which I feel are going to be rushed if people don't get a move on!!

At uni today we were given a new copy of the brief, and thank god we have been given a weeks extension! although we have to generate a portfolio book of our own, I have in design on my laptop which will make the whole process a lot more manacle. It will also given the group to produce an adequate body of work (well hopefully)

Paul gave a group tutorial to annex and although he likes are concept he wasn't so keep on the overall logo as it didn't reflect the overall aesthetic of annex. With suggestions bared in mind the annex logo has now been changed.

Here is the final version

A definate improvement, The grey shape situated between the E and the X will be taken and used within other aspects of branding. For example swing tags, business cards, packaging, video, website.

The logo alternately has completely changed everything and given several members of the group more of a drive and ideas how it could be used successfully.

I made a start of the annex website and have done what I can on the video.

For the website, as the colour scheme of the base can be altered along with the pattern, I felt as I knew how to alter the appearance of an image through the use of Flash Animation this aesthetic would work well. Allowing each pattern to be altered at the click of a button.

The buttons used for colour manipulation

Could have the above images flashing every so often for a split second in the video?

I also made a start of the video today. Working with Flash animation again, I have began to alter each image 6 frames per second. As there are only 3 patterns and the video has to be 30 seconds long, I have repeated the sequence three times and have left space for the beginning and end. I though the beginning could start off plain white with the grey logo fading into the background, with a flash of the sea bed (placed within the logo) then comes the flash line up. Wiith several flash images layered over the top (pattern possibly sea bed photography?) could have the Alexander McQueen quote at the end? "A melt down of the world, human kind evolving into the sea?") then fades into the annex logo ago and then finally annex will be placed over the top.

Looking for music to fit in with the video finding it quite hard but came across a section from one of Adam Taylor's remixes they, I think will work really well. Need to check everything over with the rest of the group on Monday, to make sure that everyone if happy with what i'm doing and see if they have any suggestions.

Uni this week has been such a blur. Started to get completely stressed out about the project and worry that everything wasn't going to be done in time!! Lucie agreed so came went in every day and accomplished so much!! finally got everyones illustrations together so was able to incorporate them into the video and the website. Both completed are showed the work to the rest of the group for their approval and everyone was happy so no alterations need to be made there.

I missed the book blinding session, so annoyed cause really wanted to go to it! the tutors were disappointed in me for not going. However, I explained to Paul how stressed out i've been and that it's not just application in design, i'm trying to keep on top of, I have 2 websites to gather together and upload for monday. The day wasn't wasted and Lucie and I booked ourselves onto the Laser cutter were we compiled business cards, swing tags and cd wallets. Attempted to generate the booklet waltets but the net in which I drew up on illustrator was completely wrong so, I need to redraw the measurements for monday.

Yasmin and Hannah put the booklet together on Thursday which was then printed. It wasn't designed how I would have designed it however it looked professional once printed on satin gloss paper. Really pleased with how my illustration came out as the shine emphasised the mesh of the pearls created. If given more time, I could have designed the others illustrations using the same aesthetic however this is not my problem as, I wasn't allocated this specific role.

There were numerous arguments and points raised by several members of the group. Suggesting that Lucie and I had done everything and not left them anything to do (worried that they were going to get marked down for their lack of contribution) I do believe these arguments could have been prevented if the members in question had actually fulfilled the roles they were assigned to in the first place. Roles were allocated and if designs were not put forward the procedures still needed to be followed through.

This situation could either work for or against Lucie and I. If we are marked purely on the contribution and the ideas provided and generated then a high mark will be attained. However if we are marked down because certain members didn't complete what they said they would then this isn't fare. As working in a team means that and you have to pull your weight and not leave others lagging behind.

From being so worked up on Tuesday and worried that we weren't going to be done on time, although there are a several more elements in which need to be completed, I believe we will be ok. Just need to sort the rest of my own portfolio look book out and get it printed by Tuesday and, I will feel completely fine and ready for the hand in on Thursday.

I managed to get my portfolio printed today (2days before hand in) I'm pleased with how its turned out. I wanted to use the same design aesthetic to that of the annex cookbook however after, I saw how pages are easily distorted when the rival is hammered in place i was a little reluctant as didn't want to go through the process of re-printing pages again. So i decided on a matt double sided paper. I worked better on some pages than others. For example the pages in which held more of my final illustrations could have been printed on the satin paper in order to provide emphasis. (though it wouldn't have been able to be printed double sided)

Uni was pretty manic again today. A little calmer after, I had more own work sorted but taking in all the extra promotional tactics that other groups were using, I couldn't help but feel frustrated that my group had been so badly organised.

We began to think of any extra promotion that could be used and started to attach launch posters all around the college. I said that I didn't mind drawing up a 2D representation of a concession stand on Illustrator (even though, I clearly asked two separate members to do this a week prior)

The presentation went really well. Expecting to talk in front of one buyer, Paul Luke told us 30 seconds before their were actually two ahhhhh. I didn't know what to expect, the last presentation we had no questions were asked. However today so many where asked. The majority of the points raised, I could see to be relevant for example were would the annex store be placed if expansion was evident. However, such question as when would the products be manufactured? I can't see how we would be expected to know the answer to?

Through out the second year we have experienced numerous presentations. Holding the final presentation in a familiar room definitely helped to calm the nerves. I don't know whether it was because it was a group presentation or whether it was because I have always been enthused by the annex concept and subject matter but I didn't feel particularly nervous.

I didn't know what to expect in relation to questioned raised as several members out the group tend to be a little out spoken at times. However surprisingly the team seamed to gel well together. Everything flowed fluidly and each individual was given the option to speak and voice their own personal opinion.

Looking back over Application in Design, I can see how the module would be useful as it prepares us for working within group situations. I enjoyed the content and concept that was chosen and managed the gain a vast array of inspiration. I did not however enjoy being held back from moving on to further stages by certain members of the group. Needless to say, I am glad this brief has come to an end. But would have been happy to peruse further individually.